A hop, skip and a jump from the golden centre, the once-industrial Smíchov is being gentrified quicker than you can say Czech Mate. So catch it while you can.
By the river outside the tourist zone, Smíchov simmers with urban cool. You’ll find glossy new malls and multiplexes by André station, but plenty of independent spirit in the district’s hip bar and restaurant scene. Amadeus aficionados have a date at the Villa Bertramka; Mozart’s Prague abode (now a museum).
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